Fine lines and wrinkles are caused by UV light, glycation, and free radical generation (in excess of free radicals necessary for normal metabolism).
We’ll discuss how each of these works, and then we will get into more detail on how to treat and prevent further signs of each kind of damage.
Cause of Wrinkles #1: UV Light
Years ago, it was thought 90 percent of our UV-light damage occurred before age 20. Now, it is known that 40-50% is incurred in before age 20, whereas the rest comes with about 10% per decade of life.
According to research published in The New England Journal of Medicine, exposure to UV light increases the activity of enzymes that degrade collagen, which are called matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). UV damaged skin appears thinner, more unevenly pigmented, saggy, and lax, as stated in Archives of Dermatology.
UV light has also been shown in research to directly induce the formation of free radicals, which damage your cellular DNA and cause oxidative damage (Photochemistry and Photobiology).
And, of course, UV light contributes directly to the formation of skin cancer, as shown in the journal PNAS, amongst many others.
How to Fight Wrinkles Caused by UV Damage: Use amino acids.
The British Journal of Dermatology recently showed that the amino acid derivatives may contribute to the construction of new blood vessels, skin cell proliferation, wound healing, and more when topically applied to the skin. We recommend AminoGenesis Therapeutic Facial Repair, which contains all 17 amino acids.
How to Treat Wrinkles Caused by Skin Damage: Use sunscreen.
Homosalate is a salicylate. Studies show that it can help limit inflammation, resulting in reduced redness in the skin. (European Journal of Pharmacology).
Avobenzone works by taking UV light and converting it into non-harmful forms of non-UV energy. Avobenzone protects well against both UVA and UVB rays.
Avobenzone sometimes gets a bad rap, because it is unstable when it is used alone and exposed to light (International Journal of Pharmacology). However, when avobenzone is paired with oxybenzone, it is stabilized and will not break down significantly in the present of light (FDA). And, as I mentioned before, octisalate will also stabilize avobenzone.
Octisalate is another photostabilizer used to reduce the degradation of avobenzone. Both are UVB filters; when paired with avobenzone, they create a broad-spectrum protectant against harmful radiation (JAAD).
Octocrylene is an avobenzone stabilizer that provides further UVB protection (Free Radical Research, 2010).
You can find all of these ingredients in AminoGenesis Wrinkle Arrest Broad Spectrum SPF 30 for AM use.
Cause of Wrinkles #2: Glycation
Glycation occurs when a sugar molecule binds with a protein. The protein, in turn, becomes misshapen. The protein that makes our skin look smooth and plump, collagen, is particularly vulnerable to this process. Cell damage through glycation results in wrinkles, lines, and discoloration.
How to Prevent and Treat Wrinkles Caused by Glycation: First, monitor your alcohol intake. Alcohol causes the skin to get puffy and flush, with dilated blood vessels. These enlarged blood vessels not only deliver more sugar to the skin’s surface, they can also cause discoloration and puffiness on their own.
Secondly, try to cut out most sugar. Americans average 150 pounds of sugar intake each year, according to the American Heart Association. In a European study, volunteers were asked to view the photos of 602 people; those with the highest sugar intake were deemed to look the oldest. This is because you are feeding more sugar molecules into the glycation pathway, meaning more sugar is going to bind to and deform your collagen!
Third, use anti-glycation skin care. Albizia Julibrissin has effects against glycation, in two different ways:
- First, Albizia julibrissin prevents against glycation;
- Second, Albizia julibrissin “deglycates” proteins in the midst of glycation. This means that Albizia julibrissin may pry sugar molecules off of proteins before they can be deformed (US Patent).
You can find Albizia Julibrissin in AminoGenesis products like AminoGenesis AGE Control Anti-Glycation Serum for AM/PM use.
Free Radical Generation
The free radical theory of aging has existed since the 1950’s by Denham Harman.Harman’s theory states that free radical processes over time cumulatively lead you to age.
Some free radicals are essential to life. In fact, according to Dr. Audrey deGrey, Ph.D. in Ending Aging, free radicals are a natural byproduct of life, formed in normal metabolic processes like eating and walking!
But excess free radicals are the issue. Free radicals accumulate and eventually “fall out” of normal antioxidant pathways over time as the body keeps fighting toxins like excess UV exposure, environmental pollutants, and smoking. It is these uncontrolled free radicals that present the real issue for your skin, leading to DNA damage and weakened collagen and hence skin wrinkling.
RCS free radicals can be found in pollution or photoaged skin, whereas oxidative free radicals can be found throughout the body.
How to Prevent and Treat Wrinkles from Free Radical Damage:
PreventheliaTM is a peptide and unusual free radical scavenger that is one of the only ingredients that appears to protect from both RCS and oxidative free radicals.
Pa Reviviscence (Resurrection Plant Extract) is rich is antioxidants and moisturizing capabilities. Data we have in-house shows that ingredient may moisturize, soften, and protect drying skin by 21%. As topical application results in about 33% maximal ingredient absorption according to this 2002 study by Briggs et. al., applying topical antioxidants should have significant effects over time.
We recommend Paranormal-EFX Anti-Aging Super Serum, which contains PreventheliaTM and Pa Reviviscence, as well as an exciting ingredient called GPA (3-Guanidinopropionic acid). GPA supports cell turnover and has calming effects, which may reduce skin tension and help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by frowning and facial tension.
Paranormal-EFX Anti-Aging Super Serum may be used day or night. If you are using it in conjunction with AminoGenesis Wrinkle Arrest Broad Spectrum SPF 30, use AminoGenesis Wrinkle Arrest Broad Spectrum SPF 30 during the day and Paranormal-EFX Anti-Aging Super Serum at night.
Fine lines and wrinkles are caused by UV light, glycation, and free radical generation. To combat these, use amino acids, anti-glycating Albizia julibrissin,PreventheliaTM, antioxidants, and sunscreen daily!